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Previous REPAIR TIPS
August, 2009--PREPARING SURFACES FOR PAINTING REPAIR TIP OF THE MONTH Home Repair Resource Center offers advice to do-it-yourselfers, through both our Nuts & Bolts newsletter and handouts in our Resource Library. Here is a sample of the information we provide: PREPARING SURFACES FOR PAINTING Getting ready to paint your house involves cleaning and repairing a variety of surfaces. This process can take longer than the actual painting, but it will play a major role in how the finished job will look and how long it will last. There are two purposes behind these preparation tasks: first, to remove dirt, oil, and grease and other materials that prevent the new paint from "gripping" the surface; and, second, to prevent moisture from getting beneath the new paint and destroying it. Preparing the body of the house: The first step is to remove any deteriorated paint and thoroughly clean the surface. Because houses built before 1978 may contain lead-based paint, you need to take precautions to prevent leaded paint dust from contaminating the surrounding area. (See the separate handout in HRRC's Library on "Working Safely with Lead-Painted Surfaces.") The best way to remove chipping or peeling paint is to tarp the area and wet scrape, using a garden hose or spray bottle to keep the surface damp. Place all chips in a "contractor grade" (4 mil) plastic garbage bag and close it securely before disposal. Once you have removed the loose paint, wash down the surface of the house with detergent, such as a commercial-type cleaner like TSP (tri-sodium phosphate). You can use a pressure washer on the lower-pressure "wash" setting, an automotive brush, or even a heavy-duty sponge. Pay special attention to protected areas, such as overhang eaves, gables, and porch ceilings. Rinse thoroughly and let the surface dry for several days. Areas that are heavily soiled or stained by rust or mildew will require special attention. In many cases, detergent and a scrub brush will be sufficient. Remove rust stains with a solution of oxalic acid. (Follow up with a rust-inhibiting primer, or the stain will reappear.) A bleach solution will kill the mildew spores. Organic stains can be removed with a solution of ammonium sulfamate powder. Rinse off all these products with clear water, and remember to wear protective clothing and goggles. Then, repair any deteriorated surfaces. If the body of your house is covered with wood siding or shingles, you should replace any split or rotted pieces before you paint. Re-nail any loose siding, and fill all nail holes and small cracks in the surface with vinyl spackling. Replace any loose nails with slightly larger ones; for rusty nails, countersink them 1/8” deep and putty over the nail heads. Repair any trim pieces, and replace any deteriorated glazing around windows. Check for cracks or openings where water might enter the wall, especially around door and window frames and where siding meets a roof slope or brick surface. Remove any old caulk and replace it with fresh (siliconized acrylic works best). Finally, apply a coat of primer--at least to any areas of bare wood, and preferably to all areas that have been cleaned and repaired--before applying the final coat(s) of paint. Preparing porches and decks: High-traffic areas, such as porches, should be wet scraped and painted with an exterior deck enamel. Places where the old paint has chipped or peeled can be filled with vinyl spackling. Although this material does not hold up particularly well under foot traffic, it is still wiser to repair the surface and repaint more frequently than to spot sand and contaminate the area with lead dust. Preparing metal surfaces: Unpainted metal surfaces should be painted with a suitable primer. Older steel and iron metal surfaces need to be cleaned of grease, oil, and rust before painting. For oil or grease, use a solvent such as mineral spirits or turpentine. For rust, you can use the traditional method--scraping and sanding the fixture down to bare metal by hand or with a power tool, priming it with a rust-inhibiting primer, and then repainting it--or you can use a rust converter (like Duro’s Extend™), found in the form of brush-on liquids or sprays. Before you apply the product, scrape away any loose rust or paint flakes, but you don’t need to sand or grind the metal to a shine. The rust converter will cause the rusty areas to turn bluish-black as the surface is stabilized; where any old paint is left, the polymer vehicle dries clear. After the converter has dried, coat the entire surface with a rust-inhibiting paint, such as Rustoleum™, to protect the metal from further deterioration. Preparing exterior masonry surfaces: If your existing brickwork has been painted, you need to clean off any white, powdery deposits of crystallized salts ("efflorescence,") commonly found on masonry surfaces, before repainting. Paint will not adhere properly over these deposits. You can remove the built-up efflorescence with a 10% solution of muriatic acid applied with a wire brush, and then rinsed with clear water. (Be sure to wear protective clothing and goggles.) Although some people look for ways to remove old paint from masonry surfaces, you may never be able to get all traces out of the nooks and crannies. Probably the best results can be achieved with a paste remover (like Peel Away™), but you still may have to deal with lead residue. Preparing concrete: New concrete should not be painted for at least 96 days, until it finishes curing. Before painting a smooth concrete floor, etch the surface with a solution of one part muriatic acid to eight parts water, applied with a stiff fiber brush. Allow the solution to remain on the surface until it stops bubbling. Then, rinse thoroughly. Clean all concrete with a good detergent before painting, to remove oils and grime that prevent the paint from adhering properly. You should also remove any efflorescence with muriatic acid, as described above. Power sanding and machine blasting: Although abrasive blasting for paint removal was popular in the past, it is now prohibited in many communities with older homes, including the City of Cleveland Heights--at least until technology is developed to contain all the lead dust created when old paint is removed. Cleveland Heights also prohibits dry sanding, as well as the use of volatile paint strippers, an open flame or burning torch, or a heat gun that operates above 1100° Fahrenheit or that chars the paint. Dry scraping is permitted only in conjunction with a heat gun or immediately around electrical outlets or when treating small spots of defective paint (totaling no more than 20 square feet on exterior surfaces.) Of course, each house is unique. Yours may have special circumstances that pose a challenge. If you have questions about preparing specific surfaces for painting, your local paint supplier may be able to advise you. (back to top)
ASPHALT REPAIR & SEALING Those small cracks and depressions in your asphalt driveway can cause a whole lot of destruction. They provide places for water to work its way into and under the pavement; when that water freezes in the winter, it will expand--cracking apart the asphalt and even heaving up whole sections of the driveway, like icebergs. In most cases, the solution to this problem is fairly easy. A few hours of maintenance each fall will help avoid such destruction and extend the life of any asphalt drive. Asphalt is basically made up of coal tars and fine gravel. When a driveway is installed, this compound is heated, spread out evenly, and compressed in place. After it cools, it becomes hard enough to retain its shape under the weight of your car. However, over the seasons, as the sun and the elements cook out the oils in the coal tar, the gravel is no longer held so tightly together. Cracks develop, and then chunks of asphalt fall out. The trick to ensuring a long life for your drive is keeping it sealed, to slow down the effects of the elements. Before sealing, you need to fill any cracks and depressions in the existing asphalt. Ideally, this should be done several days before you seal the drive, to allow the materials to cure properly. To repair small cracks (up to about a finger width), use an old screwdriver or masonry chisel to clean all loose or broken materials out of the crack, remove any grass or weeds, and apply an herbicide; then fill the crevice with crack filler. (Crack filler usually comes in a one-gallon pour-bottle that you pour right into the crack or in a cartridge that you apply with a caulk gun. It can be purchased at building supply or hardware stores.) The crack filler will harden, but remain pliable enough to stay in place despite temperature extremes. For larger cracks or shallow craters, first clean them out as described above. Scrape away any build-up of grunge; then, remove oil or grease stains by scrubbing them with driveway cleaner or TSP or by coating them with a primer that covers oil spots. Next, fill the hole with cold patch, an asphalt repair material that is available in 80-pound bags at most lumber yards or hardware stores. (If you leave the bags of cold patch in the sun for several hours before installing the material, it will be easier to work with.) After you have filled each hole, use a rake to level it off. Then, compress the filler with a lawn roller, an asphalt tamper, or even your car driven over a board placed on top of the patch. When it has set, in a day or so, the patch will retain its shape. Chuckholes or potholes are filled in much the same way. Make sure you dig out any dirt or loose materials to a solid base. The patch will hold best if you undercut the edges a bit, so the patch is wider at the bottom than at the top. If the hole is deeper than four inches, fill it with sand to a 4” depth. Then, add the cold patch in 2-inch layers, tamping after each layer. The final layer should start within an inch of the top; mound this last layer of cold patch slightly above the surrounding edges and tamp it down as described previously. After the crack filler and cold patch have cured, you’ll be ready to seal your driveway. You should do this job each fall while the weather’s still nice (see the product label for the number of hours without rain that the sealer will need to cure, and for the minimum overnight temperature required.) Just as in painting your house, the quality of the material you use for this job will affect how long the repair will last. Generally, the more expensive the sealer, the better the quality. Your best bet is to buy a good quality sealer with some grit or sand in it to provide traction for wet days and to help fill any small cracks that remain. The product label will tell you how many square feet it will cover, but it’s a good idea to buy some extra and return what you don’t use. (Some driveways, especially those that haven’t been coated recently, can absorb a lot more sealer than you might anticipate!) For this job, wear old clothes, as you usually can’t wash out sealer that splashes on your pants. (Use a petroleum-based waterless hand cleaner to remove any sealer that gets on your skin.) Before you start, clear the grass away from the edges and sweep the drive down well. If you didn’t do so earlier, remove any oil or grease stains as described above, and rinse the area thoroughly. You’re now ready to apply the sealer. Follow the preparation instructions from the manufacturer regarding whether the driveway surface should be wet or dry. Using a power mixer (or stirring by hand with a stick), mix the bucket of sealer thoroughly for about five minutes, making sure that any product that had settled on the bottom is suspended throughout the liquid. Then, starting near the garage, pour a line of sealer across the width of the driveway. Take care not to splash the sealer onto walls, foundations, or garage doors. Spread it evenly with an asphalt spreader (a combination squeegee/broom sold where you bought the sealer) to about an 1/8” thickness. When you have spread this first amount, pour another line of sealer and spread it out. Work your way in this manner to the street. (It will help if your buckets of sealer have been positioned at intervals along the drive!) Place a barrier at the end of your drive to warn people to keep off the wet surface. The product label will tell you how long you'll need to stay off the drive, to give it a chance to dry thoroughly. Avoid tracking the sealer into the house--it will be nearly impossible to clean.(back to top)
HOW COLD IS TOO COLD? If you still have unfinished repairs late in the fall, be aware of the temperature requirements for the materials you are using. As a rule, most products for exterior repairs need a minimum of 50° to cure properly. For example, concrete needs a month to cure, while the water evaporates from within it. Once we have snow and freezing weather, that curing doesn't occur at the proper rate, and the new concrete can crack and crumble. For that reason, try not to pour concrete less than 30 days before the first anticipated freeze. You should also pour concrete only on a day when the temperature is above 40°; if the overnight temperature will drop below 40°, cover the concrete with plastic and hay or straw to retain the heat created by the curing process. The addition of calcium chloride (a chemical sometimes used by contractors when they do cold weather pours) is not permitted under the Building Code of many communities, including Cleveland Heights, because it shortens the life of the concrete. Asphalt driveway sealer needs 24 to 48 hours to dry. If the temperature goes below 50° (even at night), then the sealer won't cure properly. Crack filler should be used a few days before the sealer is applied, so that the filler can cure properly. It’s important to have two or three days of dry weather after applying the sealer or filler, so the rain doesn’t wash away these materials. Unless you use one of the new paint products designed for use down to 35°, you shouldn’t paint when the temperature is expected to drop below 50° that night. Regular paint needs some warmth to dry, so it can cure and adhere the way it's supposed to. If you're looking to replace your roof, wait until spring if at all possible. If you re-roof late in the year, the materials may not last as long as they should. The roofing materials may not lay down properly, causing “bubbles” when the temperature warms up again. Roll roofing and shingles will become very brittle under 50° and can develop hairline cracks as they are handled. These cracks will cause the materials to fail much sooner than they would otherwise. If you must patch in cold weather, keep the materials inside where they can stay warm until you are ready to nail them in place. There are a few exceptions to the 50° rule. One is caulk, which doesn't require as high a temperature to cure to provide an effective seal. Glazing compound is another product that can be used at a lower temperature. You can also do tuckpointing and masonry work, since mortar will cure below 50° (but not at freezing temperatures). Remember--you're paying good money for these jobs, whether contracted or do-self. It may be tempting to take advantage of an Indian Summer day to finish up those repairs you'd planned to do, but you need to think beyond one sunny afternoon. For products that need a higher temperature to cure, using them when it's too cold may make your repair shorter-lived, at best, and ineffective at worst. Make sure you have enough warm weather ahead for the materials to cure as they're meant to do, and they'll give you the life span you've paid for.(back to top)
REPLACING YOUR STORM DOOR Not only does your storm door offer a first impression of your house, it is also used each time you come and go, day in and day out. If this door sticks or binds, or if it doesn't close properly, then it's not doing the job that it was intended to do. A storm door works by trapping air between itself and an inner door. This pocket of air acts as an insulator and helps reduce drafts that otherwise can creep into your house and make your feet cold in the winter. (Note: Because sunlight can cause heat build-up in this air space, you may not wish to install a storm door outside of a heavily-insulated steel or fiberglass entry door that has plastic moldings around the windows. The plastic may melt or deform from the heat.) Replacing a storm door in a standard opening is a project that most homeowners can complete in about two hours. However, it's important to spend time making a careful selection of your new door. Storm doors can range widely in price, from inexpensive economy models to quite costly alternatives. There are a few features you should look for when selecting your new door. Only the most expensive doors will have all the best features. However, you can seek a door with the most features for the money you have available. Most doors need replacement because they sag, bind, twist, or stick. So, look at how the door is constructed. Pay particular attention to the corners, because when they start to pull apart, the door begins to bind. Some more expensive doors have a wooden core with a thin layer of aluminum or vinyl around it. Such doors have a solid corner without a joint—a good feature. Most medium-priced doors are assembled with corners that are mitered (at a 45° angle) and then screwed or riveted together. This type of corner can pull apart. On the other hand, mitered corner that are welded together form one of the strongest corners. (Welding also effectively seals the corners against air leakage.) The least expensive doors are assembled by butting the sides against the top and bottom, forming the weakest type of corner. Next, look at how the window is installed. The best doors have corners that are welded, or at least caulked. If the door's main function is to keep out air, then openings at the corners of the window will defeat your purpose. You can caulk these corners yourself, but it's hard to do a neat, attractive job. You'll also want to consider the bottom panel of the door. The size of this panel affects the door's rigidity. The larger and sturdier the panel, the less chance that the door will twist out of shape. Doors with a large piece of glass running nearly their full length are much more likely to twist; because there is no metal panel below the glass, the door is less rigid, and the frame can flex around the window. The way the door seals to the frame is another important feature to consider. The best system is the magnetic weatherstripping (like the system on your refrigerator) that is found on some metal doors. More commonly, the weatherstripping is made from felt or nylon bristle; this type tends to wear quickly. Finally, look at the material from which the door is made. Aluminum with no inner core of a different material will tend to conduct the cold from the outside in. Aluminum or vinyl doors with an inner core of wood or rigid insulation are the most efficient at preventing such heat loss. When you install your new door, caulk behind the frame before you install it, and at the corners of the frame after installation. This will help insure an airtight seal and increase the efficiency of your new door. Usually, a hacksaw (for adjusting the frame,) tape measure, hammer, screwdriver, and caulking gun are the only tools you'll need. There is no regular maintenance needed for most storm doors, beyond routine cleaning.(back to top)
INSULATION STRATEGIES to reduce heating costs There are many products that can be used to weatherize and insulate your house. The main objective when insulating is to create a heat-retaining envelope, one that will contain and put to best use the heat produced by the home's heating unit. To achieve this, use different materials, each in an appropriate location. Let’s talk about some different approaches and look at where they work best. Let’s start with air control. Air is constantly moving around us. In winter, the colder outside air enters the home, and the heated inside air naturally rises. These are the two forms of air movement that you need to pay the most attention to controlling--leakage of cold air from the outside into the house, and loss of heated air from the house to the outside. External colder air enters the house any way it can. It moves through cracks around doors or windows, through gaps where the wood walls of the house connect to the masonry foundation, and through other spaces, such as around outside water faucets. It will also radiate from cold window glass. To correct air leakage, you need to close or seal the gaps. Around doors or windows, use one of the many available types of weatherstripping. For gaps between wood and masonry, or around door or window frames, caulking is the solution. (A separate handout on “Caulking and Weatherization,” with hints on how to choose and install the right materials for each situation, is available through HRRC's Resource Library.) To block cold radiating from glass, add storm windows, insulating glass, or even plastic "shrink wrap" barriers to create a pocket of trapped air to act as insulation. The warmer air that you've paid to heat is also moving inside the house. It rises up to and through the roof. To a lesser extent, it also moves out through the side walls and windows. The first step in controlling this movement is to make sure the heated air gets to where you want to use it. If you have a furnace, the warm air moves through a system of pipes, called "ducts." They can and do leak, allowing warm air to escape where you won't use it, such as in the basement. Prevent this air loss by sealing all joints in the ducts with duct tape, and by insulating ducts that pass through unheated spaces. If you have a register on your furnace for the basement, close it. (Most often, the heat that radiates from the furnace and ducts is more than enough to warm a basement.) If the heat source in your home is a boiler, it is relatively easy to insulate the water pipes that carry heat from it to the rest of your house. Once you've made sure the heat is getting to where you want it, keep that warm air where it belongs by following the caulking procedures already outlined. In addition, close doors and turn off the heat in unused rooms. Seal around anything that passes from the heated floors into the attic (such as the chimney, water or soil pipes, or wires.) All these holes allow the rising warm air to move out of the house. Only when you've done all these steps are you ready to look at house insulation. There are several types of insulation, but all are designed to contain heat within your house. (For help in choosing the best form of insulation to use or where to install it, HRRC's Resource Library has several handouts on insulation.) Insulation works on the same principles that a storm window does. It traps air, and the trapped air provides an insulating barrier. That is why thicker insulation has more resistance (or “R value,” a measurement of the ability of a material to resist the flow of heat through it.) When you stuff or compress insulation, you reduce its R-value, because you reduce the amount of air it can trap. The same thing happens if the insulation gets damp or wet from moisture in the house. As it mats down, its R-value decreases. This is the reason that adequate ventilation in an attic is so important. Attic vents allow air movement, which carries away moisture and thus maintains the insulation at its peak effectiveness. Just as trees, bushes, walkways, and exterior lighting all add to the total effectiveness of your landscaping plan, the various forms of insulation and weatherization work together in your house to keep the cold air out and the warm air in. When you add to these energy conservation methods some lifestyle changes, such as setting your daytime thermostat lower and lowering it even further at night, moving beds to inside walls, hanging heavier curtains, and closing off unused rooms, the savings will translate into money in your pocket, and comfort in your home.(back to top)
AVOIDING ICE DAMS With the freeze-and-thaw cycles that so frequently occur during Northeastern Ohio winters, most houses will occasionally be decorated with long icicles hanging from the gutters. Spectacular as they are, the ice can have a destructive side, when it builds up along roof overhangs--a problem commonly known as an ice dam. Ice dams can damage soffits, rafters, sheathing, shingles, and fascia boards on the outside of the house. Melting ice can also back up under shingles, where the resulting leak can compact insulation and damage walls and ceilings on the inside of the house.
While it is unlikely that a roof will be completely ice-free, there are several ways to deal with ice dams. They range from simpler to more complex, vary widely in price--and none are foolproof. However, each can help reduce the chances that an ice dam will cause expensive damage to your house. The first option is to add insulation to keep heat from rising through the roof and melting the snow, which then flows down to the cold gutter area and refreezes. This is particularly important on older homes, where insulation is inadequate or was never installed at all. However, you need to be realistic; even snow on well-insulated roofs can melt, run down to the gutter area, and freeze partway. In addition to adding insulation, consider increasing the ventilation beneath the roof to allow any heat that does move up from the living area to escape to the outside. The easiest time to do this is when you re-roof your house; discuss the need for additional ventilation with each roofer when you are obtaining estimates on the project. When you next replace your old shingled roof, make sure to have a waterproof membrane installed on the lower 3 to 6 feet of the plywood roof deck. This rubberized "Ice and Water Shield" will prevent melting ice from penetrating through the roof sheathing. Have your roofer install drip edge on the bottom edge of the roof, as well. The most common way to prevent ice build-up to install low-wattage electric heating cables along the lower edge of the roof. The cables look like heavy-duty extension cords and plug into a standard outlet. They are usually installed in a zig-zag pattern along the lower edge of the roof, through the gutters and several feet into the downspouts. Some homeowners install them on a do-self basis, while others contract the job. The cables are available in various lengths, ranging from 20 feet to 120 feet or more. The length of cable you’ll need depends on how deep into the overhang the cable will be run--12”, 24” or 36” from the bottom roofline. Most manufacturers explain how to figure the length of cable you should buy for their product.
Make sure the cable is installed safely. Don’t use extension cords with the cable, because they can overheat. The cable should not be crisscrossed or overlapped, because that contact can create sufficient heat to melt the plastic insulation around the wire. Make sure the cable is plugged into a weatherproof outlet that is properly grounded, and that the cable itself is also grounded. While the cables operate on 120 volts, the longer the cable, the more wattage will be required to heat it. Most heating cable do not have thermostats, so you’ll have to pay attention to the weather forecast to determine when you should turn them on and off. You don’t want to pay for electricity to heat the cables on days when you don’t need them. Timing the installation is important, too. Make sure the heating cable is installed before the snowy weather hits. It’s too dangerous to install them when there’s a lot of snow and ice on your roof. You can remove snow accumulation with a roof rake (a large broom-like tool with an extension handle that you can use to drag loose snow off the roof deck), but--once an ice dam has formed--your options are limited. Don’t try to hack at the ice (you can damage your shingles or gutters), or throw hot water or rock salt on the ice in an attempt to melt it. Just be patient and wait for warmer weather. If the worst happens and you do notice a leak into your ceiling, drill a quarter-size hole through the plaster to let the water come through. It’s easier to patch that hole later than to repair a whole ceiling that comes down.(back to top)
WHEN TO UPDATE YOUR PLUMBING SYSTEM People generally take their plumbing for granted. They expect that, when they turn on a faucet, water will appear, and when they open a drain, water will flow out. But, problems can occur in water supply and drain lines, problems that prevent the free movement of water through the pipes. Most newer water lines are made of copper, and seldom become obstructed. The only time you will usually need to deal with copper pipe is when you are changing a valve or re-routing a water line. Lengths of copper pipe are soldered together, although you can use compression fittings--a more expensive option--to join them if you don’t want to use a propane torch. In 2007, Cleveland Heights began to allow plastic (PEX or CPVC) water supply lines to be installed in residential buildings. PEX stands for "cross-linked polyethylene," and CPVC stands for "chlorinated polyvinyl chloride." Since metal piping often is part of the grounding of a household electrical system, the city requires that the piping installer have an electrician certify that there is an adequate ground connection to provide safety. Older water lines are usually made of galvanized iron or, in some homes, of lead. All kinds of problems can occur in galvanized pipes. First, these lines commonly become obstructed over the years, to a point where the space left for water to flow through may be only a small part of the original diameter of the pipe--significantly reducing the water pressure. Second, any time you physically disturb a galvanized pipe, unseen leaks may be created in other parts of the line, so you have to take extreme care when working on this kind of system. Third, if your water system is a combination of galvanized and copper lines, you need to make sure that, anywhere the two dissimilar metals meet, they have been separated with a dielectric union (to prevent a chemical reaction that will cause the pipes to deteriorate.) Galvanized iron was also used for older drain lines. Obstructions in these lines can reduce the flow of wastewater. Galvanized drains can also deteriorate, creating leaks into the ceiling below. Some older bathtub drain lines contain a "drum trap," a coffee-can-shaped reservoir commonly sunken into the bathroom floor. Not only do drum traps make clearing obstructed lines difficult, but they can also rust through and cause leaks. Most people use PVC, a kind of plastic pipe, for new drain lines or to replace old galvanized ones. PVC is quite simple to cut (use a hacksaw or miter saw) and connect (use a primer, followed by an adhesive). You will need special fittings to connect new PVC pieces to old galvanized drain lines or to cast iron stack pipes. So, if you have older water supply and drain lines, when should you replace them with newer materials? Certainly, any time you have a leak, you should deal with that right away--water intrusion can damage wood, plaster and other materials, causing a much more expensive repair. But, you might be wise to update your system before an emergency occurs. In addition to preventing water leaks, such an update can improve your daily life. Replacing galvanized water lines will usually increase water pressure (you’ll have a better shower!) And PVC drains don’t tend to clog as often as galvanized, so you won’t need to be on a first name basis with Mr. Plumber.(back to top)
MAINTAINING CERAMIC TILE WALLS Ceramic tile walls surrounding a tub or shower need periodic maintenance. Cracks in the grout can absorb water, allowing the moisture to penetrate behind the tile and destroy the underlying plaster or drywall. Many of the leaks that appear on the ceiling below a bathroom aren’t the fault of a leaking water supply or drain pipe; rather, they are caused by poor grout conditions. Sealing the grout and caulking the seam between the tile and the tub or shower floor pan will stop these leaks and prevent damage to the walls and ceiling below. Start by cleaning the entire area, removing soap scum and mold. Inspect the grout between the tiles for cracks and loose or missing sections. Scrape out any loose pieces, and then fill the seams with new grout as needed. (Pre-mixed grout is available in squeeze tubes or in small tubs; install it with a sponge or grout squeege.) Wipe off any excess with a damp sponge after it has set.
Don’t use grout to fill the seam between the tile and the tub or the shower floor pan. The sealant you use here--silicone caulk is your best choice--needs to be flexible, to allow the tub to expand and contract. Scrape the old caulk out of the seam, and then fill it in with fresh caulk. Faucet escutcheons and tub spouts should meet the wall snugly, so that water cannot flow in behind the tiles. Many plumbers use clear silicone caulk around the fixtures to make a better seal to the wall. Let the new grout and caulk cure completely, usually for three days. Then, liberally apply a grout sealer (available at all tile stores and most building materials centers) over the entire tile area, and let it set for about an hour. Wipe off the excess sealer, and your shower is ready to be used once again.(back to top)
GUTTER MAINTENANCE When April showers fall upon your roof, it’s the job of your gutters to control and carry away all that water. You can pinpoint problems in your system if you take a few minutes to check the condition of your gutters and downspouts. Your annual spring inspection is a good place to start. Put on your rain gear or grab an umbrella, and go outside during a heavy rain. Nothing else will give you such a graphic picture of how much water your gutters must handle--or how well they are doing their job. If you see water pouring out over the top of a downspout or flowing down your siding, you know you have some repairs to make to return your gutter system to working order. Older galvanized gutters that have developed holes or are rusting out should probably be replaced. Aluminum gutters and downspouts, however, will last much longer with periodic maintenance, provided that they haven’t been crushed by a ladder or car bumper, or deformed by excessive ice build-up. Gutters that are otherwise sound can sag out of alignment, usually because they are no longer securely fastened in place. (A “washed-out” area in the lawn below can indicate this problem, as cascading water destroys the ground cover.) When weather permits, climb a ladder to the gutter line and check the fascia board behind the gutter. This board can rot out, requiring replacement. While you are replacing the fascia, check the condition of the rafter ends to which the gutter is nailed. If the ends have rotted, it’s a simple job to nail a “sister” along side the rafter end, giving you sound wood to anchor the gutter (see illustration).
Then, clean out any debris from the gutter, so you can check the caulking at the gutter seams and where the gutter meets the house. Remove any deteriorated caulk and re-caulk as needed. Finally, while you’re on your ladder, check the downspouts to make sure they are clear of obstructions and flowing smoothly. You can test your downspout drains by putting a garden hose into the top of each downspout (or into the tile crock at the bottom, if you break the mortar seal and pull the downspout out of the tile.) Let the water run for 10-15 minutes. If the water doesn’t back up, the drain line is clear from that point onward. If, on the other hand, the water backs up, the drain should be snaked to remove the obstruction (usually caused by tree roots.) By testing each downspout, you can pinpoint the likely location of the clog; for example, if the rear downspout backs up, but the front one flows freely, the obstruction is probably in that portion of the drain between the two downspouts. By checking your gutters periodically, you can prevent the major headaches that water damage can cause. The most common problem is water intrusion through the foundation wall. If you have a wet basement, the steps described above will help you diagnose the most likely cause.(back to top)
GAS POWERED TOOL MAINTENANCE Giving regular attention to tools with gasoline engines (lawn mowers, weed trimmers, edgers, and snow blowers ) will prolong their lives and simplify yours--with lower repair and replacement costs. It’s especially important to prepare these tools properly before using them each season, and to store them properly when the season for their use comes to a close. BEFORE YOU USE A TOOL AT THE BEGINNING OF THE SEASON: Make sure the tool is clean. For mowers, sharpen or replace any blade that is worn, bent or damaged, so the grass will be cut cleanly, not torn. Clean any old grass from under the mower deck, and coat the area with a rust-inhibiting spray lube (WD-40™, Teflon, or silicone spray), so you can easily clean the deck between cuttings to prevent rusting or pitting. Be sure to lubricate any moving parts (wheels, throttle control and cable, etc.) If you didn’t clean or replace the air filter before storing it at the end of last season, do so now. If it’s a sponge-type filter, wash it with some liquid dish soap, then squeeze about a teaspoon of motor oil into it so it will collect dust effectively. Install a new spark plug (take the old one with you to the store, so you can buy the proper replacement) and, on four-stroke engines, change the oil--even if you changed it at the end of last season--to clean from the crankcase the acids and impurities caused by combustion, and moisture from condensation. If the motor will not start, despite the above maintenance, here are a couple of things to check. First, ensure that there is “spark” (the voltage that arcs across the spark plug gap). One way to test is to remove the wire from the spark plug, remove the plug from the motor, and then replace the wire onto the end of the freed plug. With insulated pliers, hold the plug against the motor fins, and pull the starter cord several times. If there is no spark, ignition parts will need to be replaced (this will probably be a repair shop job). If there is a spark, then it’s likely that the problem is in the fuel delivery. If you didn’t drain the gas tank before last winter’s storage, or didn’t use a fuel stabilizer (like Stabil™), the gas may have evaporated into a varnish-like coating--and clogged the carburetor. Before taking the mower to a repair shop, try the following routine: Start by ensuring that the work area is well ventilated, with no flames or smoking items nearby. Gasoline and fuel additives are extremely flammable. Put down some cardboard and paper to absorb any gas and/or oil that gets slopped. Remove the air filter and the spark plug. Drain the old fuel, and pour a little fresh gas into the tank. Pour an ounce of carburetor cleaner additive (like GumOut™) into the tank and mix it with the gasoline. Also, pour some of the cleaner directly into the carburetor and brush it around. (An old toothbrush will do, so long as it is clean.) Pull the starter cord repeatedly, so that the fuel/cleaner mixture gets pulled through the carburetor. Drain the mixture from the tank, and then fill it with fresh fuel. Replace the spark plug and air filter, and start the mower. DURING THE SEASON: Inspect the air filter frequently, and clean or replace it when necessary. Check the oil level before each use, and change the oil when it becomes dirty. Before refueling the mower or any other tools, let the engine cool down to prevent an explosion or fire. Wipe off any fuel spillage and move the gas can well away from the motor before attempting to start the engine. Clean the tool before putting it away after each job, paying special attention to removing all grass from the area beneath the mower deck. STORING THE TOOL AT THE END OF THE SEASON: Clean the tool thoroughly before putting it away at the end of the season. On mowers, be sure to clean out all the old grass from under the deck, and coat the area with a rust-inhibiting lubricant (WD-40™, Teflon, or silicone spray). A lot of people suggest running the engine out of gas before storing at the end of the season, but residual gasoline can turn into a varnish-like coating that can plug up the fuel system when you try to start it next season. Instead, you can add a fuel stabilization product (like Stabil™) to a full gas tank and run the motor for a few minutes to ensure that the mixture has made it into the carburetor. (The additive will prevent the varnish build-up during storage.) Then, clean or replace the air filter. If you have a four-stroke engine, change the oil to clean out the acids and combustion by-products from the crankcase and prevent rusting and pitting of the engine internals. On both two-stroke and four-stroke engines, remove the spark plug and pour a small amount of oil into the cylinder. Leave the ignition off, pull the rope several times to circulate the oil, and replace the spark plug. The oil will keep the piston and cylinder from rusting together. Several minutes of maintenance labor at the beginning and end of the season will help keep your gas engine tools running well for years to come--and save you from repair shop bills.(back to top)
CONTRACTING A SHINGLED ROOF REPLACEMENT When obtaining bids to replace your house roof, you should discuss with each contractor several important issues. It’s important to clarify the composition and quality of materials that will be used--especially the roof felt, flashing, and shingles--as well as the way these materials will be installed. You’ll want to make sure the roofer you use is familiar with the product to be installed, is experienced with the installation methods that will keep the warranty in force, and promises to use those methods in the written contract. In Cleveland Heights, a permit is required only if the job involves replacing any of the supporting structure of the roof (joists, beams, etc.,) or if all the sheathing will be replaced. If the roofer will be applying a second layer of shingles over an existing layer or replacing only part of the roof sheathing, no permit is needed, although the contractor must still be registered with the City. (Note: If a permit is required, make sure that the job has passed inspection with the Building Department before you make your final payment.) MATERIALS: Make sure the roofer will use 15# or 30# roof felt. The difference between the numbers is in the weight of the paper; 30# paper is thicker than 15# paper. A type of waterproof roofing underlayment (usually referred to as Ice Guard or Ice Shield) should be applied to specific areas that are prone to ice dam and/or water build-up, to prevent water from getting underneath the shingles and entering the house. (It is a little bit more expensive, so it’s not generally used throughout the roof, but only in trouble areas--usually the bottom three to six feet along the roof line, and sometimes in the roof valleys.) Drip edge (a metal strip that prevents water from working its way back up under the shingles) is generally installed along the bottom edge of the roof, but in some cases may be recommended along the "rake edges" (the sides sloping down from the peaks), as well. Your contract should specify whether waterproof roofing underlayment and/or drip edge are included, and where they will be installed. Flashing is the metal used to seal the roof where it joins other roof sections, house walls, or around obstructions such as chimneys. It’s best to get all new flashing with a roof replacement, rather than allowing the roofer to re-use the existing flashing. The contract should specify use of coated aluminum flashing (a width of 24" is standard) with a gauge of .025 or heavier; if you desire a different flashing material (i.e., copper), make sure it is specified in your contract. The contract should also specify the manufacturer, style, composition, and weight of the shingles to be installed. Shingles are generally described as asphalt or fiberglass. The difference can be confusing--even for roofers. Part of the confusion lies in the fact that fiberglass shingles are made from asphalt, and really should be called "fiberglass-asphalt shingles." Both types have a base mat that is surfaced with mineral aggregates. In organic asphalt shingles, that base mat consists of felt, made from rags, and paper wood pulp that is saturated and coated with asphalt. In fiberglass-asphalt shingles, the mat is made from glass fiber mat coated with asphalt. Although fiberglass shingles have a better fire rating than organic asphalt, both are considered acceptable. Both types of shingle are commonly used today. Your choice will generally depend on aesthetics, availability, and cost. Generally, the more expensive shingles, whether organic asphalt or fiberglass-asphalt, will come with a longer warranty, some extending to 25 - 30 years. The difference between asphalt and fiberglass-asphalt shingles will usually be of greater concern to the roofing contractor than to the homeowner. Fiberglass-based shingles are coated (not saturated) with asphalt, and don’t get as soft during hot-weather installations--and thus aren’t so easily damaged. On the other hand, fiberglass shingles are more difficult to work with in very cold weather because they can become brittle and can crack if flexed. For that reason, organic shingles may be a better choice if your roof will be installed during the late fall or winter months; fiberglass, for a summer installation. Traditional three-tab shingles are most common, although some homeowners prefer the look of inter-locking shingles or the newer "dimensional" style that simulates the look of wooden shakes. In addition to appearance, your selection of a shingle style should take into consideration both current price differences and future costs. For example, dimensional shingles, because of their nature, should not be covered over with a second layer and should be removed before your next roof is installed (although HRRC always recommends stripping off to the roof deck--see below.) The choice of shingle style and color is usually left to the homeowner, but should be in the final contract (as should the color of the flashing, which should closely match that of the shingles.) The shingles should all be from the same manufacturer’s lot number, to ensure consistent coloration. Venting of roofs has become a virtual necessity in the last ten years, as a way of allowing hot, moisture-laden air to escape from beneath the roof and extend the life of the shingles. There are many types of vents to choose from, each with a "best application" and a different installation method (separate handouts on attic vents are available in HRRC's Resource Library.) Make sure you discuss the reasons for each contractor’s recommendation for venting, and that your contract specifies the type and location of each vent to be installed. The contract should specify that materials are to be delivered to the job site no more than three days before they are to be installed. INSTALLATION: It is always best that a new roof be installed directly on top of the roof sheathing (the wood deck that covers the rafters). Many contractors, however, will assume that you want a tear-off only when you already have two layers of roofing material and would be adding a third. If you have a single layer of roofing now, you might wish to ask about the cost of stripping off that layer, especially if your present roof has a lot of irregularities. If your top layer of roofing covers an old slate or wooden shingle roof, there may not be any sheathing under it. Roofs of those types were often installed on "nailers," planking with four-inch gaps between them. In such cases, a base of plywood sheathing must first be installed over the entire roof surface after the old shingles are removed and before the new ones are installed. Be aware that this will add to the cost of the job, but it’s important that the new shingles be nailed into wood--not air--so they will hold. If your roof has had leaks, show those areas to the contractor. (A quick peak at water stains inside a closet or wet rafters up in the attic will give an idea of the problems involved.) Make sure you ask the contractor for a best estimate of the wood replacement that will be necessary, as well as a per-foot cost for any additional wood deck repair that may be discovered when the shingles are removed. It’s important to know both figures, so you can plan for the extra cost. Ask the contractor to specify how the shingles will be fastened. As a rule, hand nailing is preferred over power nailing. (Power stapling is not recommended.) If power nailing is used, it is important that the contractor control the amount of pressure being applied, so that the nail heads are not driven into or through the shingles. (Overdriving the nails can radically shorten the life of a new roof.) Regardless of the method to be used, the contract should specify that all installation requirements from the manufacturer will be followed, so as to keep the material warranty in full force. If your work will be done during cooler weather, you may wish your contract to specify that the shingles will be installed only when the temperature is at least 50°. Installation of the flashing is one of the most important parts of any roofing job. Be sure that your contract specifies that the contractor will install valley flashing under adjacent roofing shingles, and slip step flashing behind the wood siding or cedar shingles along house walls and dormers. In addition, the contract should call for the contractor to counter-flash all chimneys and imbed the flashing in mortar joints (grind and tuck method, using reglets). These installation methods will help prevent water from getting under the metal flashing and entering the house. Finally, include in your contract that the contractor will be responsible for a thorough clean up, for damage if the roof is left uncovered and it rains, and for any damage to siding or gutters during the course of the roofing job.
AVOIDING HEAT DAMAGE Most of the time, we focus on the damage that cold and wet weather can do to the systems of a house--but it’s important to remember that the “Dog Days” of summer can also be destructive. By understanding the problems that can result from excess heat and humidity, you can take preventive measures to protect your home. During the last decade or so, we have become more aware of the damage done to asphalt roofing shingles by excess heat that moves through the roof from the attic below. This heat can drastically shorten the life of a shingled roof. The remedy is adequate venting. Most roofers now recommend installing roof vents when you re-roof; there are numerous systems available, so you can choose the one that best suits your house. However, you can extend the life of your existing roof by adding a power vent to your attic, or even by installing a thermostatically-controlled window fan to move the hot air out. Over time, asphalt roll roofing on flat roofs over garages and porches is damaged by the sun. You can use roof coating once to renew the oils in the roofing material and seal hairline cracks. You might also consider using aluminized roof coating to reflect the heat of the sun, especially on roofs over living areas where heat builds up (such as enclosed porches or sun rooms.) Wood, both untreated and treated, is also susceptible to sun damage. All finishes on decks, fences, and varnished porch floors should be U-V resistant. Although the sun will inevitably take a toll on exterior paint, a good-quality paint will give you the longest life. However, paint can fail earlier on certain areas of the house--usually outside kitchens, bathrooms, or other rooms where excess humidity develops--when water vapor passes through the exterior wall. Miniature vents can be inserted at the top and bottom of each stud cavity outside problem areas, so air can circulate. Basement walls and cold water pipes are susceptible to condensation during the summer, as humid air comes in contact with these cool surfaces. You might consider using a dehumidifier to control excess humidity in your basement. Cold water pipes can be covered with insulation jackets; and, if your toilet sweats excessively, you can insert a Styrofoam liner into the tank. Damage from heat and humidity can be prevented, or at least reduced, by these relatively inexpensive measures. So, take the “bite” out of those Dog Days--and extend the life of your house systems.(back to top)
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Clean out deteriorated grout with a grout saw