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Previous REPAIR TIPS
June, 2011--PAINTING ARCHITECTURAL IRONWORK REPAIR TIP OF THE MONTH Home Repair Resource Center offers advice to do-it-yourselfers, through both our Nuts & Bolts newsletter and handouts in our Resource Library. Here is a sample of the information we provide: PAINTING ARCHITECTURAL IRONWORK On many older homes you’ll find architectural ironwork--scrolled wrought iron fences and railings on steps or porches, cast iron mailboxes and light fixtures--all features from an earlier time that add a great deal of charm. After all these years, however, most of this ironwork needs attention. It's important that architectural iron be protected from the weather (usually with coatings such as paint and galvanizing), or it will eventually rust away. Maintaining ironwork has traditionally required a lot of time and elbow grease. The typical method has been to scrape and sand the fixture down to bare metal, prime it with a rust-inhibiting primer, and then repaint it. Power tools with wire wheels or sanding disks can reduce the time required to prep the surface, but a lot of detail work still must be done by hand. Otherwise, the only way to avoid this laborious procedure is to disassemble the item, take the parts to a sandblaster, and then prime the bare metal immediately to prevent "flash" rusting. Rust converters in the form of brush-on liquids or sprays offer an attractive alternative to all that work. First introduced to industry in the 1950’s, these products (like Duro’s Extend™) are now found in stores selling building supplies, hardware, paint, and auto parts. They usually contain tannic (or nintannic) acid combined with a polymer solution (called the "vehicle.") Before you apply the product, you should scrape away any loose rust or paint flakes, but you don’t need to sand or grind the metal to a shine. The rust converter will cause the rusty areas to turn bluish-black as the surface is stabilized; where any old paint is left, the polymer vehicle dries clear. After the converter has dried, coat the entire surface with a rush-inhibiting paint, such as Rustoleum™, to protect the metal from further deterioration. Following these simple steps whenever you see signs of rust will add years of beauty and usefulness to your ironwork. But, as Neil Young once sang, "Rust never sleeps...." (back to top)
PLANNING FOR KITCHEN REMODELING Remodeling a kitchen can be one of the most stressful projects you can undertake. Before you start, here are some things to consider. Cost: First things first – your budget! Whether you will be doing it yourself or hiring a contractor, you have to determine what you have available to spend on the project. Everything else will be secondary to your budget. This article will not address specific costs, because that subject could take several pages alone. However, there are some general perspectives on project costs that you may find helpful. Moving the locations of windows and doors is usually very expensive. Even moving water or electric lines can add more to your cost than you can afford, so you will have to decide if relocating that sink is worth it! Working within a very tight budget may mean that your kitchen remodeling job is limited to cosmetic changes. But, even such changes – such as replacing the countertop, installing new lighting, and adding a fresh coat of paint – can rejuvenate the room. You can complete the new look with new faucets and hardware, like cabinet handles. While this “low-bucks” approach won’t gain you a built-in refrigerator or a restaurant-style stove, you can still be resourceful when faced with a problem. For example, you can have the dishwasher painted to match the other appliances instead of replacing it, and then put the cost savings into another part of the job. Recycle what you can; for example, you can choose to clean up and re-use cabinets, rather than buy new ones. A tight budget usually requires some sweat equity. Patching plaster and painting can be handled by just about anyone, and it’s not that hard to replace a faucet. However, when there are structural changes to be done, calling in a professional tradesperson is the thing to do. Moving or replacing plumbing lines and upgrading electrical work will usually require permits, and the work will have to be inspected by your city’s Building Department. Expect to find extra things that will need repair as the job progresses, such as crumbling plaster walls or corroded iron piping, and allow for that work in your budget (call it your “contingency fund”). Getting a minimum of three bids is another smart idea. An estimators’ guide will give you a clue as to average prices for the work you need to have done. Especially if money is tight, stay away from extreme or custom designs in cabinets, light fixtures and hardware. Standard items – though not as glamorous – are less costly, and it will be easier to find replacement parts when needed. Comparison pricing is work, but your preliminary research can pay off in considerable savings. Let a store know you’re working on a remodeling project and, armed with your complete shopping list, inquire if it can offer any discounts if you make all your purchases there. Many retailers have a meet-or-beat pricing policy that may save you some more money. Check online sources, also. Look at different brands and collect model numbers at a home center or plumbing-supply house, then investigate Web outlets. Design: You’ll find graph paper very helpful in your kitchen planning. By mapping out the floor plan of your kitchen, you can work through new ideas. You’ll want to have accurate measurements of the walls and the locations of all doors and windows. There are some inexpensive computer design programs for homeowners, so you can print out various options. Every year several do-it-yourself magazines have a kitchen-remodeling issue; check at your local library for back copies to scour for ideas. Now is the time to develop that “wish list” of things you would like to have – roll-out pots and pans drawers, recycling bins, and the like – and see which of them might fit your budget. An architect is indicated if you want to change the structural design of the house, such as moving walls or building an addition. In some communities, exterior changes may have to be approved by an Architectural Review Board and/or the Ohio Historical Society. If you intend to stay within the existing kitchen floor plan, you will not need to do these steps. Many “home center” retail stores and kitchen-and-bath specialty shops will do kitchen cabinet design plans for you. Most of the stores charge for the design plan, but will drop the charge if you purchase the cabinets from them. Preparation: When it comes time to start the work, be prepared to be inconvenienced for a long period. Even with a “bare bones” project, the work is likely to take longer than you anticipate. Don’t believe a contractor that promises that a whole new kitchen can be done in two weeks; you’ll want to insist on a realistic timetable that will allow for a few unexpected delays. Plan to set up a “temporary kitchen” while yours is getting its makeover. Perhaps you can move appliances into a nearby room. (Be sure you have enough electric capacity to handle the load, and that you use the right size extension cords; check your plans with an electrician or your city’s Building Department.) A backyard grill can be a serviceable alternative to your stove, as can a microwave oven. Unless you’re planning to use only paper plates and cups, you’ll probably need to set up an area to wash dishes in your bathtub or laundry sink. Before the job starts, you’ll need to pack up the contents of your kitchen, so they’re out of the way while the work is done. Keep out any items you use frequently, and store the rest elsewhere in the house. Heavy boxes from liquor stores are usually sturdy enough to handle pots and pans, silverware, and small appliances. Before you pack up your pantry staples, use this opportunity to check them and get rid of anything that is no longer in good condition. Install a barrier of plastic sheeting at each doorway to the kitchen. It will help contain dust and debris (especially important if you will be disturbing old lead-based paint (see separate handout on “Controlling Lead-Based Paint during Your Paint Control Project.”) If you are getting new cabinets, be sure to open the cartons and inspect the cabinets as soon as they are delivered. That way, you can deal with any broken or damaged pieces before it’s time for them to be installed. Even a low-cost kitchen remodeling project is going to disrupt your life, but approaching that disruption with humor – and an occasional restaurant meal – will help make it more bearable. (back to top)
SIDEWALK LEVELING Many people are interested in trying to level sidewalk slabs, but are afraid that the segment will be too heavy to handle without damaging the slab--or their backs! If you've been really struggling to get your sidewalks lifted and straightened out, there are some ways to get that project done even if you're not a body builder. In many northeastern Ohio communities like Cleveland Heights, sidewalks are made of either concrete or sandstone. Although concrete is the heavier material, it’s less likely to crack. It is usually poured 2-1/2" to 4" thick, and generally doesn’t lie on a bed of sand. Sandstone, on the other hand, is usually installed over a bed of sand – and if it isn't, it should be. It’s lighter, but the edges tend to chip, and it may crack while you’re lifting the block to level it, if you don’t handle it with care. Don't try to use a crowbar on sandstone, as you will almost assuredly crack or chip it. Nine times out of ten, a section of sidewalk needs to be leveled because some uncooperative tree root grew where it wasn't supposed to and gradually lifted one section up until it is no longer at the same height as its neighbor. Code regulations in many communities require that there be no more than 3/4" difference between two adjacent sections of walkway, to avoid creating a trip hazard. To level a slab, you'll need to lift the section up, raise or lower the bed underneath it (so the slab ends up at the level of the section next to it), and lower it into place again. You won't usually need a permit if you're just leveling existing slabs (through you’ll need one if you're replacing a slab with fresh concrete--check with the Building Department in your city.) There are some tools that will make leveling a sidewalk section a little easier. First, if your sidewalk is concrete, check to see if the block was poured as one piece with its neighbor; if so, you can cut all the way through the control joint between them with a concrete saw to separate the segments. Next, use a trenching shovel to dig the dirt out along the edges of the slab. You don't need to dig too much; you just want to expose the edges and dig a trench under one side deep enough to pry up the slab. Then, use a mule or a slab lifter to begin raising the slab. A mule is a long piece of wood with a metal lip on one end. Slip the metal lip under the slab, and then push down on the handle to pry up the concrete. Slab lifters are basically two 2 x 4's nailed together for extra strength and leverage. Use the narrow width--not the wide edge--of the lifter, for greater strength. After you raise the slab up about 12", you can place a hydraulic jack under the slab. Then, raising it up further will be as easy as jacking up a car.
When you have the slab raised up enough to get at the tree root, place some type of blocking under the slab to prevent it from coming down sooner than you planned (maybe with your hands underneath it!) Sometimes, you may find it easier to drag the slab completely out of the cavity, so you have easier access to the problem beneath it. With the slab safely blocked or removed, you can attack the tree root. Don’t use a chain saw; it's not meant to be used in the soil. You can cut out the root using a rough cutting blade in a power reciprocating saw (such as a Sawzall™). An ax will also work, if there's enough room to swing it. Before replacing the slab, seal the cut ends of the root with some roof tar, to prevent insects from invading the tree. If the slab is too low, and you need to raise it to the level of the one next to it, lift it up and add some play sand underneath it where it's low. Then, lower the slab into place again. If there are "humps" in the sand, water from a garden hose can be used to even them out. So, if you let the tools do the hard work and take the time to get the root out, you should be able to get this job done without taking a weight-lifting class. (back to top)
CHECK OUT YOUR FIREPLACE Most people enjoy sitting in front of a cozy fire on a wintry evening. If you are lucky enough to have a fireplace in your home, it's important to make sure everything is in working order before building that first fire of the season. This is usually a job for a chimney sweep. Fireplaces should be cleaned every two years, because as little as 1/8" of creosote (produced when wood is burned) can cause a chimney fire. Soot and creosote can cause respiratory problems, too. Clogged flues and other venting problems can cause a deadly build-up of carbon monoxide in the home. In addition to removing creosote and other residue from the inside of the chimney, a reputable sweep should look at other safety issues:
In addition to conventional fireplaces, sweeps will also clean gas-burning fireplaces and fireplaces with wood-burning inserts. They may suggest a chimney cap, to keep animals from taking up residence in your chimney and prevent moisture from entering. (Water that drips down your chimney can combine with built-up creosote to produce acids, and with ashes at the bottom of the chimney to produce lye, both of which can cause expensive repairs.) Even after your chimney has been professionally cleaned and checked, remain safety-conscious when you use your fireplace. NEVER leave a fire unattended. Use screens or doors to prevent sparks from igniting materials nearby. Finally, make sure you have a working smoke detector and fire extinguisher on each floor of your home. (back to top)
WEATHERIZING WINDOWS One of the most common complaints regarding older homes concerns windows that don’t seal out cold air. Before you choose a weatherproofing method, try to determine how the air is getting in. Outside air can seep in around the window frame, around the glass panes in the sash, or around and between the sashes themselves. Depending on the source of the air intrusion, barriers can be installed to block the draft. For air that enters the house around the outside of the window frame, a good quality silicone caulk is your best defense. Make sure that any old caulk has been removed, and that the area is clean and dry. Caulk all joints between the window frame and the surrounding structure. If the gap is wide or deep, you can fill much of the space with a piece of Styrofoam backer rod (a sort of “foam rope”), to minimize the amount of caulk that must be used. Caulk can also be applied inside, where the wood molding joins the plaster wall. You may want to consider a clear caulk in these areas. If the source of the draft is air coming around the glass panes of your window, it’s time to replace the glazing compound that holds the glass in place. Over time, the glazing can harden and become brittle, creating gaps between the glass and the frame. Remove the old glazing with a putty knife and replace it with fresh, smoothing the new compound with a glazing tool or putty knife so that it creates a neat and attractive seal. (Note: glazing compound has a brief shelf life; don’t try to use material from a can that has been sitting in your basement for the last six months.) One of the most common sources of drafts is around and between the sashes in the window itself. Unfortunately, the remedies for this problem are not as effective and long-lived as the barriers provided by caulk and glazing compound. You can use inexpensive weatherstripping (such as “V-strips”) that adhere to the frame throughout the year. “Rope Caulk,” a temporary barrier, can be installed between the upper and lower sashes and around the frame each winter and removed in the spring. Similarly, you can cover the entire window with one of the plastic “shrink wraps” that you heat with a hair dryer until you have an air seal; again, this barrier must be removed in the spring to gain access to the window. Drafts often have their source in the cavity designed to hold the sash cords in double-hung windows. Homeowners who seek to end cold drafts by replacing their windows are often disappointed with the results, unless the contractor fills the sash cord cavity with insulation before installing the new window. Low-expansion spray foam insulation can sometimes be added after the window has been installed, although this measure often requires removing the woodwork around the window. These are just some of the strategies you can use to reduce drafts from your windows. They will vary in cost and complexity, but all will help you save on energy costs and increase your comfort level. (back to top)
GETTING QUALITY REPAIRS If you are planning a repair, whether do-self or contracted, there are a number of things you can do to help ensure a quality job: Do your “homework” first: Before you start getting estimates, learn as much as you can about the repair to be done--how the job should be done correctly, what choices you'll have regarding materials and installation methods, what your City's building code requires (for permit jobs), etc. The more you know what the "issues" are, the better prepared you'll be to discuss the repair with the professionals. In a few situations, even after your research, you may not be sure exactly how a repair should be made. In that case, you'll need to rely on the bidding process itself to get information. Meet personally with at least three contractors and interview them. Be sure you understand how each thinks the repair should be done (ask lots of "why" questions), and then get the proposals in writing. Compare the three written bids--and, if you don't see a common thread, get another. Ask questions: In most cases, your research will probably have given you a pretty clear idea of the issues you'll want to talk to the contractor or supplier about. (You may want to jot a few things down, so your questions are consistent from one person to the next.) Now, let each professional tell you what he/she is proposing. Tip: Make it clear that you are looking at cost--that you expect a fair and reasonable price--but never give the impression that all you're looking for is a cheap job. Ask about the quality of materials to be installed; if one material estimate is higher than another, ask about the difference (a higher price may be the result of a "designer look," rather than a more durable material.) Particularly for an interior job, find out if the material is easy to care for. Ask about the construction methods to be used--and whether, in the opinion of the professional, what is being proposed is all that will be needed for a long-lasting repair. (It won't help to replace the roofing material on a garage if the rafters and sheathing beneath it are rotted and can't provide good support.) Ask who will do the job--is the person who is giving you the bid a salesperson who doesn't do actual hands-on repair work, or has he/she had real experience? Who will be overseeing the work--how much will that person actually be at the job site? Will any work be left unfinished for someone else to complete (i.e., holes left in walls after plumbing or electrical work?) Ask about the guarantees on materials (and, if you will be contracting the work, on the labor) to be given. Ask the professional to provide a written bid detailing all these issues. Evaluate the information: Next, look at the bids and see whether you’re getting a reasonable price for good workmanship. You want to end up with a repair that is structurally sound, long-lasting, and done in a workman-like manner to the current standards of the trade. Cheaper is not necessarily better! Check references: Ask for and check one or two households who have used the contractor for similar work, or who have had the same material installed. Find out if there were any problems with the repair, and, if so, whether they were resolved promptly. Also check the contractor's qualifications. If the work will require a permit, confirm with the Building Department that the contractor is licensed and bonded in your city. Think ahead: Finally, spend a few minutes thinking about what could go wrong--paint splattered on your shingled roof, mortar smeared on a brick foundation, etc.--and see if you have something in the contract agreement to protect you. Remember: you can't necessarily rely on permit requirements to protect you. In most cases, permits will cover code issues (how deep the concrete for your driveway needs to be, for example), but don't define the qualities of workmanship that determine how the job will "look" (whether you want a broom-swept or swirled finish on the concrete.) It's up to you to discuss those issues with the contractor and make sure everything important to you is in writing! (back to top)
WHEN SHOULD I THROW IT AWAY? If your New Year's resolutions will include cleaning out your garage or basement, you’ll probably be faced with lots of decisions--about whether to hang onto that half-full can of paint that you used on the bedroom walls, about whether those never-opened tubes of caulk you bought on sale two years ago are too old to use, about whether the glazing compound you opened this fall will be good when you finish the rest of your windows next spring.... In other words, you’ll need to decide when your materials are too old to use anymore. In part, your decision may depend on the storage conditions. Paint, for example, may be good if it has been kept over the winter in a heated basement, but not if it was stored in an unheated garage where the temperature falls below freezing. Other materials have a short "shelf life," even under the best of conditions. To help you decide whether to "keep or toss" those cans and containers, here’s a general guide to how long common materials will last:
INTERIOR PAINTING Types of paint: Oil-based (alkyd) paint forms a surface coating that doesn't allow water or moisture to pass through. Its advantage is that it is durable and can withstand repeated scrubbings. On the other hand, it is slower to apply, tends to make imperfections more visible, and is harder to clean up. It is also more expensive. Oil-based paint is gradually being phased out by manufacturers because of health concerns caused by volatile organic compounds. You will need to clean up this type of paint with paint thinner. Latex-based paint attaches to the surface in a way that allows the surface to breathe, and moisture and water to pass through. It is easy to apply and clean up, and dries faster with less odor, but is not as durable as oil-based paint. Latex paint comes in several different degrees of shine--flat, eggshell, semi-gloss, and gloss. The duller the paint, the better it will hide surface imperfections, but the less it will stand up to regular cleaning. Latex can be purchased in an enamel-type mixture, which combines the ease of use of Latex paint with the durability of oil-based paint. All Latex paints can be cleaned up with warm soapy water. Where each type of paint should be used: Oil-based paint is generally used only for woodwork or trim. Occasionally, it is used for walls and ceilings in baths, kitchens, or other high-moisture areas. Latex paint is used for ceilings and walls anywhere. Semi-gloss latex enamel is frequently used to paint woodwork and trim. Most painters will tell you that latex can be applied on top of oil, but never oil over latex. Preparation: First, a word of caution. If there is any chipping or peeling paint, or if you are thinking about stripping the old paint off the surface before repainting, inform yourself about the dangers of lead-based paint before you proceed. If your house was built before 1978, there is a good chance that lead-based paint was used on the exterior or interior of your house. Using the wrong preparation methods can pose a serious health hazard to your family. Taking these precautions into account, proper preparation of the surfaces you are going to paint will go much further to create a good finished job than anything else you can do. Tools needed:
Start by removing all switch plates and outlet covers. Then, pull out any nails from the walls. Fill all cracks and nail holes with vinyl spackling and, when dry, sand them smooth. Unscrew and lower--or tape around the edge of--all light fixtures. (Garbage bags work well for covering hanging light fixtures.) Cover any stained woodwork or doors that you aren't going to paint, and then cover the floor with tarps. Give the walls one final check for any bumps or valleys; scrape or sand them off or fill them in, as needed. (Note: Do not use an electric sander on uneven plaster, unless it is specially designed to sand drywall. Plaster dust can ruin the motors of other sanders.) Washing the walls and woodwork with a household cleaner at this point will help the new paint adhere better. If you are painting over new drywall, cover the wall with one coat of PVA primer, then a coat of high-hiding water-base primer (like Kilz™) before the finish coat is applied. Painting procedures: Tools needed:
There are three different surfaces to be painted: the ceiling, the walls, and the woodwork. Start with the ceiling. Paint around the edges first (this is called "cutting in"), using the sash brush. It doesn't pay to buy a cheap brush; it won't cover with one coat and will leave streaks. You'll pay more for a quality brush, but it will last a long time if properly cleaned. Dip only the first third of the brush in the paint. Then, gently wipe the excess off on the side of the can. Cover the entire joint where the ceiling and the wall meet. It doesn't matter if you get some paint on the wall. After you have cut in, then you are ready to roll the rest of the ceiling. Note that latex paint dries in about an hour, so to prevent the "wet edge" of the paint you have already applied from drying before you roll, you'll need to work steadily--or you'll have a visible ridge when the paint dries. Roller covers can be purchased with several different naps (material thickness) on the surface of the roller cover. The shortest nap is for very smooth walls; the longest naps are for brick or stucco surfaces. Choose the shortest one that will do the job. "Smooth" or "semi-smooth" are the naps most frequently used for walls and ceilings. Roll the roller through the paint in the roller pan, and then roll the excess off at the top of the pan. Then, start applying the paint to the ceiling, using an even, gentle pressure and a random pattern (a "W" pattern that overlaps itself often works well.) Even pressure will prevent roller tracks, which will be visible after the paint dries. If you roll slowly, you will be less likely to splatter paint from the roller. After finishing the ceiling, start on the walls. If you are using a different color on the walls than you used on the ceiling, you can wash out the roller sleeve and then re-use it for the walls. You can also wash out the roller pans, or you can use inexpensive roller pan liners, which you change with each new paint color. Before you paint, apply masking tape to prevent slopping paint on the ceiling. Start by cutting in all the corners and where the walls meet the ceiling; then, cut in around the window and door trim and at the baseboards. Then, roll the wall paint on like you did the ceiling. Once the walls are finished, you can use the sash brush to paint the door and window trim and the baseboards. You can also use the brush to paint any doors. Hold the brush like you hold a pen. The angle of the brush will aid you in getting into corners and other tight spots. Don't worry if you slop a little paint on the glass; it will actually look neater if you scrape the glass with a razor blade after the paint has dried. If paint fumes bother you, you can buy relatively inexpensive masks to help with the smell while you are working. The smell will stay for a day or two after the paint dries. Remove any tape you put on as soon as you finish painting--don't wait until the paint dries. (back to top)
UNDERSTANDING YOUR SEWER SYSTEM Your sewer system has a big job--to carry wastewater away from your house. In most houses here in northeastern Ohio, there are actually two different sewer lines, both connected to larger pipes in the street. The sanitary sewer carries wastewater generated inside your house--by activities like bathing, dishwashing, or laundry--to a waste treatment plant, where the impurities are removed before the water is sent back to Lake Erie. The storm sewer carries water from outside your house--rain and melted snow from your gutters and any drains in your yard and/or driveway--directly back to the lake, bypassing the water treatment plant (since the water presumably does not need to be purified). In some communities, older homes may have “conjoined systems,” where the two lines join together and send all the water to the waste treatment plant. You probably never even think about this system, until there's a problem. But, when your laundry drain gets clogged with lint, or when roots invade either sewer line, water can no longer flow freely to the main sewers in the street. The result can be slow toilets, water backed up onto your basement floor, wet foundation walls, or soggy areas around your yard drain. There is no chemical that will dissolve these obstructions in your drain lines. You have to snake them out, using a sewer snake with a thick enough cable and strong enough motor to chew through roots or other blockages. The biggest problem can be getting access to the sewer line. If you're lucky, you’ll have a cleanout where you can introduce the snake cable into your line. For your sanitary sewer, you may find a cleanout on the main stack or sticking up through the floor; for your storm sewer, a cleanout may have been installed at the bottom of one or more of the downspouts, where the downspout is connected to the underground system.
If you don’t have a cleanout, you can try gaining access in other ways. For a sanitary sewer, you can try snaking from a floor or laundry drain in your basement, although it may be difficult to get a thick snake cable through the trap beneath the floor. For a storm sewer, you can chip out the mortar around your downspout and lift it out of the clay crock, and then run the snake down the drain line from there. If none of these strategies are successful, your only other options may be to locate the cleanout "Tee" (usually in your front yard near the public sidewalk, where an access pipe comes up near the surface before your sewer line joins the main sewer in the street) and snake back toward the house, or to install a cleanout that you can use for snaking. Although it's a lot of work, snaking your sewer line will clear most obstructions. If you find evidence that roots have grown into the line, you can add copper sulfate (a chemical sold in hardware and garden supply stores) to both storm sewers and sanitary sewers to slow down any new root growth; use it in the spring and fall when surges of root growth occur (and it won’t hurt to use it in the summer and winter, as well.) If you have a small amount of dirt in the sewer line, a "mud head" can be used to remove it. What snaking won’t be able to remedy is a sewer line where the pipe has broken and collapsed. Until a few years ago, there was no sure way to know, without digging, if this was the cause of the problem. Now, however, many companies have fiber-optic cameras that can be sent on a cable down through the sewer line to visualize the situation below the surface of your yard. If you see a collapsed pipe, that portion of the line will need to be dug out and replaced. Finally, some "slow" sanitary sewers may not be caused by a clogged drainpipe, but instead may be the result of a problem at the other end of the system. For wastewater to drain properly, air must be able to enter the sanitary sewer through the vent pipe that extends through your roof. Bird nests, critter carcasses or other obstructions can block the vent, and--just like a finger held over the end of a soda straw--prevent the flow of water out the other end. Note: In Cleveland Heights, homeowners can ask the City’s Streets and Sewers Department (691-7330)to try to snake their main sanitary sewer line. (This service is not available for storm sewer lines.) The cost is usually less than a private contractor, although there will be a higher charge if the work cannot be done during regular working hours. The City can’t promise that their crew will be able to open the line, but they won’t charge you if they’re not successful. The City’s crew prefers to work from the outside of your house, so it helps if you know where the cleanout "Tee" is on your tree lawn. The City’s records were destroyed by fire in the 1970’s, but if your "Tee" isn’t marked, they may be able to locate it--or, rarely, they may be able to work from the basement. (back to top)
NEGOTIATING A PAYMENT SCHEDULE One of the most frustrating parts of dealing with a contractor can come at the end of a project, when--even though most of the work has been completed and paid for--there are a few small details that the contractor has promised to fix "in the next few days." Weeks later, they are still unfinished, and the contractor has not responded to your calls. Mild irritation has turned to total dissatisfaction with the contractor, destroying all your pleasure in the work that has been done. What can you do to keep this all too common problem from happening? In most cases, the answer lies in establishing and managing a payment schedule in such a way that the contractor has a real incentive to finish up the detail work. Talking over expectations--both yours and the contractor’s--and negotiating the payment schedule before work starts can help prevent a myriad of problems. In developing the payment plan, Home Repair Resource Center suggests that you do not agree to a large down payment, but instead seek reasonable alternatives based on the principle of "money paid for value received." For most small jobs, no payment should be necessary until work is completed. On larger projects, you might offer to make a check to the store for materials that must be specially ordered; offer to pay for materials delivered to your home; or offer to make progress payments as agreed-upon portions of the work are completed. If you and your contractor come to agreement on a series of progress payments (a common arrangement is 1/3, 1/3, and the final 1/3 after all work is done), it's best to tie those payments to completion of readily identifiable stages of the work, which have been defined in advance. For example, on a contract for a new garage, you might agree to pay a certain amount when the concrete foundation has been installed, another amount when the rough framing has been completed, and the final payment when the whole job is done. Once you agree to a plan, stick to your guns. Remember--retaining funds until all work is done is the best way to make sure that those nagging details at the end get finished! Whether it's the last progress payment on a big repair or "payment in full" for a small job, don't give up that final check until you are fully and completely satisfied with the work. (And, if yours was a big job where subcontractors were used, don't make the final payment without proof from the contractor that all subcontractors were paid.) A final tip: Before you make any payment (even a progress payment) on jobs for which a permit is required, make sure that the work has been approved by your city’s Building Department. (back to top)
CONTRACTING EXTERIOR PAINTING When obtaining bids to have your house painted, you should discuss with each contractor several important issues. Because preparation and painting are so labor-intensive, the price that a contractor quotes for a job will frequently depend on how you define the quality of workmanship you are seeking. For that reason, in addition to discussing the type and color of paint that will be used, it's important to clarify the work that the contractor will do BEFORE the paint is applied. The preparation work that a painter does will not only affect how your house looks--it will also help determine how long the paint job will last. Because in most communities the painter does not need to obtain a permit for this job, you will not be protected by an inspection by the Building Department when the work is completed. That makes it all the more important to discuss with the contractor just what kind of a result you are looking for, and what it will cost. If you signal to the contractor that you are only concerned with getting the lowest price, the most likely place to reduce costs will be in the preparation. In a worst cast scenario, paint can simply be applied over the existing surface, with no cleaning or removal of the old paint. (A house painted in this way will usually start peeling in short order.) The other extreme is to have the old paint removed completely, down to the bare wood; while this will produce the most long-lasting result, the preparation costs can be higher than your budget will allow. Negotiating a "middle ground" in such cases might give you acceptable quality and longevity within a price you can afford. What kinds of preparation might be involved? Before painting, the contractor should make all needed repairs to the siding and trim (replacing rotted, decayed, or badly cracked wood; securing loose siding or nails; removing any hooks and nails that are no longer in use; and covering over nail holes, rusty nail heads, and small cracks with vinyl spackling). This is also the time when caulk and glazing should be checked, and replaced as needed--especially around your doors and windows, and where siding butts up against a roof slope or masonry. Most painters can do these minor carpentry jobs as part of the preparation process, or you might decide to lower your cost by doing some of the work yourself. The biggest problem will be dealing with the old paint that has built up on the surface of your house over the years. In most cases, that old paint will have cracked or "checkered," allowing moisture to get behind the paint layer. Before applying a new coat, the contractor must remove that damaged paint.
Some painters have pursued special training in how to deal with lead-painted surfaces. Even if you don't utilize one of these licensed or certified contractors, you should discuss how the painter proposes to remove deteriorated paint. Because of the danger when lead-laden dust is released into the atmosphere or contaminates the soil around your house, certain methods of paint removal are now prohibited in many communities with older homes, including Cleveland Heights. Dry sanding or dry scraping is no longer allowed, except in conjunction with heat guns or immediately around electrical outlets, or when treating small spots of defective paint on exterior surfaces totaling no more than 20 square feet. Paint removal with an open flame or burning torch is also prohibited, as is use of a heat gun that operates above 1100° Fahrenheit or that chars the paint. And, the contractor will not be able to remove paint by machine sanding or grinding, by abrasive blasting or sandblasting, or with volatile paint strippers. (There are a few paint strippers that claim to remove lead paint safely, but they tend to be rather expensive, especially for the whole exterior surface of a house.) So, what can the contractor do to remove chipping or peeling paint? The best solution is for the painter to remove as much loose paint as possible by wet scraping, capturing all the paint chips with heavy-duty tarps and cleaning up daily. Then, if desired, the whole house can be washed down with a pressure washer and a detergent like TSP (applied at the lower-pressure "wash" setting that doesn't disturb the old paint), rinsed well, and allowed to dry completely before the paint is applied. This cleaning will remove dirt and chalking (from oxidized paint), giving a better surface for the new paint to adhere to. After removing the loose paint, the painter can fill in any "craters" (areas where the bare wood is lower than the painted areas around them) with exterior vinyl spackling, so they come up level with the surrounding areas. (This method is 100% safer than sanding lead-based paint, and will give a neat finish when painted.) If you need to cut costs, you may want to skip this step, at least on the less visible areas of the house; the process does not increase the longevity of the job, but will result in a nicer "look." Priming, however, is essential. While an entire coat of primer is best, having the painter spot-prime any bare wood or spackling is an acceptable compromise. Your cost will also be affected by any "problem areas" that require special treatment. If there are areas where paint fails repeatedly, for example, you'll want to talk with the contractor about how to solve the problem. Blistering paint can be caused by condensation in the outer walls of your house, particularly outside high-moisture areas like bathrooms and kitchens. You may wish to have small louvered vents installed in the siding to increase air flow and help keep these areas dry. If there are metal surfaces where rust has built up, the painter should scrape them and apply a rust-inhibiting primer, or use a rust-converter to stabilize the surface. Find out what type of paint your contractor is recommending for the job--it can affect how long your paint job will last. Latex paint will let water evaporate through it without blistering and peeling, but it expands and contracts at a different rate than oil-based paint. Your choice will primarily depend on the paint that is already on your house, although there are primers that will allow you to switch from one type to the other. Regardless of whether you'll be using oil or latex, make sure the paint is medium grade or better. Also, if you are changing colors, ask whether one coat will be sufficient to hide the old color; with some combinations, you may need to use--and pay for--a second coat. Don’t forget weather concerns. Your contract should specify that painting be done only when the surfaces to be painted are thoroughly dry and when no rain is expected before the new paint can dry. The temperature--even at night--should remain above 50° F to allow the paint to cure properly. (If you MUST have the painting done in cold weather, make sure the painter will use one of the paints designed for weather down to 35° F.) Make sure you discuss how the contractor will protect your property and your house. The contractor should agree to repair or replace any gutters or other areas damaged during the course of the preparation or painting. Include in your contract the contractor's promise that all work will be done in a neat and workmanlike manner. Plants, sidewalks, and other areas around your house should be covered with protective tarps, to prevent damage to those surfaces, and the contractor should agree to clean up immediately all accidental drips, spills, or overspray--onto a driveway, off the dormers onto your roof, off the trim onto your brick house, etc. (And, you should plan to be home when the work is done--you don't need to be an expert to spot sloppy work!) Finally ask what warranty will be provided on the work (both from the manufacturer on the product and from the contractor on the workmanship), and what insurance protection the painter has in case of injury to his crew and/or damage to your property. If you decide to use a painter who does not provide these protections, you may trade a lower initial cost for long-term problems. (back to top)
PORCH COLUMNS Many older homes are graced by columns supporting a porch roof. Most of these columns will eventually need repair or replacement, as they suffer the effects of age and weather. With a little know-how, this job can be done by the homeowner on a do-self basis. The first task is to determine the extent of the repair. Sometimes, you will only need to replace the plinth (the bottom trim piece at the base of the column) or the capital (the top trim piece.) Small holes in the pillar or trim pieces can sometimes be filled with wood putty, or soft spots hardened up with wood hardener. Once the pillar shows signs of significant deterioration, however, it’s usually necessary to replace the whole thing. Locating a replacement column can be tricky. Some columns are made from aluminum, others from composite materials, and still others from wood. The round-style wood pillars are hollow, made from vertical strips of wood laminated together. Older columns tended to be larger than their modern counterparts--the wooden columns most readily available today are 8" in diameter, while older ones were often 9-1/2". You might be able to match your column at an architectural salvage place; otherwise, you’ll probably have to replace all your columns to have them match one another. If you need to replace all your columns, you may be able to construct hollow square or rectangular box posts for far less than you’d pay for round ones. Be sure, however, that the new style is compatible with the architecture of your house. Look at similar houses to see, or talk to an expert in historic preservation if one is available in your city (Cleveland Heights residents can call the City’s Planning Department,) or consult the preservation experts at the Cleveland Restoration Society, (216-426-1000). It’s important that your new pillar have the right "look"; even though a 4" x 4" post may have adequate strength, it will be too insubstantial for the proportion of most porches. Once you have your replacement parts, the next problem is supporting the porch roof while you do the repair. You can use a hydraulic jack to lift the roof; you will only need to raise the roof 1/2" or so, just enough to remove the rotted post. Nail together some 2 x 4's to make two 4" x 4" posts--one to wedge between the floor and the ceiling (or support post) and the other between the jack and the ceiling. Hollow out the bottom of the shorter post with a 1-1/2" paddle bit, so that the head of the hydraulic jack can be inserted into the wood to hold it securely. (If you have one, a metal jack post can be used in place of this shorter wooden support post.) Then, position the jack on the porch floor, or on the ground, if necessary; using that shorter post, lift up one side of the roof. When it is high enough that the porch column can be freed, wedge the longer post in place to support the roof at that height. Move the jack to the other side of the porch roof and raise the roof there to an equal height (see below). Only when you have the roof supported in two places should you remove the damaged column. (Never rely on the jack alone to hold the roof in place.) While the roof is supported, make the necessary repairs to the column. If the pillar has a masonry base, you may need to fix the brickwork, in addition to the carpentry repairs. Then, lower the roof onto the columns once again. Finish up with a bead of caulk where the wooden column parts meet the porch floor or the masonry support, plus a coat of enamel trim paint on all wooden elements.
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Mule for lifting sidewalk blocks
